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How to Sew in Boning: Elevate Your Sewing Skills

Ever stood in front of a boutique window, admiring that impeccable, runway-worthy dress? You know, the one with the perfect silhouette that seems sculpted to the body? What’s the secret behind that jaw-dropping shape? It’s not magic—it’s boning. And guess what? You can master this technique, too.

Let’s be real for a moment: if you want your creations to turn heads and say “custom-tailored” instead of “homemade,” adding boning is a great way to go. It gives structure, elevates your sewing game, and provides that sought-after fit and finish every sewist dreams of.

I remember the first time I tried to add boning to a garment. I was both excited and a little intimidated—would it look too stiff? Would I ruin my project? But as I learned to work with different types of boning, I realized it’s easier than it seems—and the results? WOW.

See our tips, product recommedations, books, and video suggestions below on boning.

The Foundation of Structured Garments

Understanding Boning

Boning is a crucial element in garment construction, especially in creating a well-structured bodice. Traditionally made from whalebone, modern boning materials include steel and plastics, providing the necessary support and shape.

A well-constructed bodice can transform a garment, enhancing the wearer's figure and ensuring a professional finish. Learning to install boning, particularly in items like corsets, can be a game-changer for your sewing projects.

Key Elements of Boning

The process of sewing boning can be broken down into three key elements: preparation, installation, and finishing. Each phase requires careful attention to ensure the final product is both durable and comfortable.

• Preparation: Measure the boning based on your bodice pattern, ensuring it is slightly shorter than the seam allowance to avoid discomfort.

• Installation: Boning can be inserted into sewn casings or the seam allowance. Different methods will be discussed below.

• Finishing: Ensure the boning aligns with the body's natural curves, securing it with stitching to prevent movement.

Creating Boning Channels: A Step-by-Step Guide

Creating and Attaching Channels for Boning

Channels, or casings, house the boning and keep it in place, ensuring comfort for the wearer. These can be made using bias tape or seam allowance. The width of the channels is crucial; they must be snug enough to hold the boning securely but not so tight as to hinder insertion.

1. Prepare the Boning:

   • Cut the boning to the desired length, ensuring it's slightly shorter than the seam or area where it will be inserted.

   • If using plastic boning, round the edges with scissors or cover the ends with fabric tape to prevent poking through the fabric.

2. Create a Boning Casing:

   • Cut a strip of fabric or use premade bias tape to create a casing.

   • Fold the fabric strip in half lengthwise and press, then sew along the long edge to create a tube. The casing should be wide enough to fit the boning securely.

3. Position the Casing:

   • Pin or baste the casing along the seam allowance or garment edge where the boning will be inserted. Common areas include bodice seams, corsets, and bustiers.

   • Ensure the casing is straight and aligned with the seam.

4. Sew the Casing to the Garment:

   • Sew the casing onto the garment, stitching close to the edge of the casing on both sides, leaving one end open for inserting the boning.

   • Be sure to sew through the seam allowance without affecting the exterior of the garment.

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1. Insert the Boning:

   • Slide the boning into the open end of the casing. Ensure it fits snugly but without stretching the fabric.

   • Push the boning all the way to the bottom of the casing.

2. Secure the Boning:

   • Once the boning is in place, sew across the open end of the casing to secure the boning inside.

   • You can also reinforce the stitching at the top and bottom of the casing to prevent the boning from shifting during wear.

3. Final Check:

   • Check that the boning is lying flat and comfortably inside the garment without causing distortion to the fabric.

   • If necessary, press the garment carefully, avoiding direct heat on plastic boning.

These steps will ensure the boning is neatly inserted and provides the desired structure to your garment.

Frequently Asked Questions About Boning

Can You Hand Sew Boning?

Yes, hand sewing boning is possible, especially for smaller projects or when a sewing machine is unavailable. Patience and precision are key to ensuring a secure and neat finish.

Can You Sew Through Plastic Boning?

Yes, plastic boning can be sewn through using a heavy-duty machine needle and the right stitch settings. Ensure the stitches are close enough to secure the boning without weakening it.

When in Doubt, Go to Professor Pin Cushion. See their how to step-by-step video on boning.

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