🪡 THE TECHNIQUE: Hand-Rolled Hemming

Forget topstitching. This is high-level finish work — couture light.

🧵 Materials You’ll Need:

• Fabric: Very Lightweight up to 2.5 oz: Silk habotai, charmeuse, chiffon, georgette.
  (Avoid synthetics. If it doesn’t whisper in your hand, it won’t drape on your neck.)

• Needles: Size 10 or 11 Sharps – John James or Bohin.

• Thread:

  • Luxury: Au Ver à Soie 100/3 or Superior Kimono Silk 100wt

  • Beginner: Gutermann Sew-All, fine polyester

• Other Tools:
  Fine pins, sharp scissors, beeswax (optional), pressing cloth.

✂️ The Look: “Almost-Choker” Silk Neck Scarves

To get that snug, chic Audrey wrap (tied in a simple knot or gentle bow at the side of the throat), here are your ideal square sizes:

📏 You can easily create these scarf squares at home using a rotary cutter, ruler, and cutting mat. Just measure carefully and square off your fabric before beginning your rolled hem.

🧵 HOW TO:

1. Square your very lightweight fabric with a rotary cutter.

2. Fold edge ⅛", roll it gently by hand. No pressing here—feel it into place.

3. Use a sort of modified blind whipstitch (aka) whipstitch, ladder stitch, invisible stitch:

   • One stitch in and under the roll

   • Needle over 1/2”

   • Then down and under the roll again.

   • One Stitch in and over again 1/2”

   • Then down and under the roll again. Repeat.

   • Then pull gently the seam into a roll.

4. Corners: Tapered or mitered only.

5. Press LIGHTLY. The roll must stay round, not flat.

What you’ll get?
A hem that disappears into the fabric like it was born there.

🛍️ WANT TO SKIP THE HEMMING?

No shame in sourcing a silk square for inspo:

• Hermès & Louis Vuitton: Ultimate examples of color, weight & classic scale

• Macy’s & Bloomingdale’s: 100% silk printed squares for practice or styling

Still want to stitch your own? Choose luxe yardage like:

📌 Bonus Tip: Add a small embroidered initial to one corner before hemming. That’s how they did it in the '50s — with flair.

🔓 INSIDE DESIGN SECRETS (Module 3 Blender on a Drip):

✔ Video Tutorial: Hand-Rolled Hem from Start to Finish
✔ Fabric Sourcing Guide for Scarves
✔ Styling Secrets: The Audrey Tie, 3 Ways
✔ Scarf Size Reference + Easy DIY Measuring Tips

This isn’t “just another” accessory. It’s elegance in one square of silk.
And once you learn the technique, you’ll never look at a hem the same way again.

P.S. Think of this as a warm-up for high-end finishing. If you can master a hand-rolled hem, you’re ready for hems on charmeuse gowns, silk blouses, and designer-level details that most home sewists never attempt.

P.P.S. Don’t forget to post your scarf in the community for feedback—and watch how fast your status goes from hobbyist to high fashion.

The Blender Module “The Look of a Lady” (Audrey Edition) is front and center.

🔥 Members: Your Next Lesson Is Waiting
Go to Level 3: The Innovative Designer – The Blender (Month 3 only).

👉 But first, log into the Design Secrets Members Area:
Click here to log in »

With style and stitches,
Margie
Founder, Design Secrets & Sewing Pattern Secrets

💡WAIT—What’s Design Secrets?

If you're one of our many Sewing Pattern Secrets members who’s been enjoying the 150+ tested patterns and step-by-step tutorials, you might not have heard about our premium sewing course and community😀 

🧵 Design Secrets.

In addition to 26 iconic designs, it’s where we teach on a year long drip:

• Pattern adjustment and fine sewing skills

• Fashion history that informs your design thinking

• Construction breakdowns from iconic looks

• Designer-inspired projects (Audrey, Marilyn, Gatsby—and more!)

📌 Sewing Pattern Secrets Database

Unlock the Hidden Vault of Curated Sewing Patterns.

✅ If you’re a Sewing Pattern Secrets member, log in and start sewing! This one is already waiting for you inside the database.

🚀 If you haven’t grabbed the database yet, now’s the time.

Right now, you can still get lifetime access to 155+ curated patterns, video tutorials, ebooks, and planners for just $67.

🛍️ Click here to grab the entire Sewing Pattern Secrets library before the price changes!

Warmly,

Margie Vaudreuil
Founder, Sewing Pattern Secrets LLC

More Brewing

More from Sewing Pattern Secrets

We offer a database of over 155 sewing patterns, instructions, 46 supporting sewing tutorials, and 5 ebooks. Learn more.

Existing Members: Access your Paid Library Here

Existing Members: Sign into your Five Free Pattern Access

Sign up for Access to the Five Free Pattern Mini Sampler Site Here

How to Print Our Patterns Blog Article

Want to see more about what is INSIDE the database? Peek INSIDE NOW

Affiliate Disclosure:

Some of the links in this email and in The Sewing Brew newsletter contain affiliate links, which means if you click on them and make a purchase, we authors may receive a small commission, at not extra cost to you. This helps support our work and allows us to to continue to provide valuable free content. I only recommend products that I use and love. Thank you for your support.