- The Sewing Brew
- Posts
- š The Hidden Measurement Thatās Ruining Your Fit
š The Hidden Measurement Thatās Ruining Your Fit
Most patterns wonāt tell youābut we do (š“ in red!). Let your muslin prove it.

Author: Marjorie Vaudreuil. Sewing Pattern Secrets, Design Secrets, TheSewingBuzz.com and TheSewingBrew.com
š§µ Understanding Ease in Sewing Patterns
Why Your Garment Might āFitā But Still Feel Off
Letās get one thing straight:
š Your measurements arenāt the full story.
If your finished garment feels too tight in one place and a bit baggy in anotherāeven though you followed the pattern exactlyāyouāre not alone.
The reason?
It could be the wearing ease.
And once you understand it, youāll never waste fabric on a āmehā fit again.
š What Is Wearing Ease?
Ease is the difference between your body measurements and the finished garment measurements. Itās the built-in room a garment has beyond your size.
A pattern can include anywhere from ½" to 4" of easeāsometimes more, depending on the design.
š§µ Most commercial patterns might mention ease.
ā
But Sewing Pattern Secrets patterns always tell you up frontāin red text, right on Page One of your PDF.
No guesswork. No surprises.
š The 3 Types of Ease You Need to Know About
Knowing what kind of ease youāre dealing with will save you time, money, and fabric headaches:
1ļøā£ Wearing Ease
This is the basic space you need to move and breathe.
Rough rule of thumb:
š« 2" at the bust
š½ļø 1" at the waist
šŖ 1½" at the hips
Itās not about styleāitās about function.
2ļøā£ Design Ease
This is where the look comes ināboxy tops, breezy skirts, slouchy jackets.
Itās intentional room that gives the garment its shape or drape.
Style ease is aesthetic, not necessity. And whether you love it or hate it? Thatās up to you.
3ļøā£ Negative Ease
Used with stretch or knit fabrics, this is when the garment is smaller than your body on purpose.
š§āāļø Think leggings, tanks, fitted tees.
The fabric stretches to contour your shapeābut the pattern must match the stretch.
š Not Sure If Itās Comfort or Style Ease?
š¤ Let the muslin tell you.
Look, if a pattern has 4" of ease, youāre probably assuming this is design ease, but am I going to like it?
Answer: You wonāt know until you make a sample (aka muslin).
š§µ Sew a quick test version in similar fabric
š§āāļø Try it onāmove, sit, raise your arms
āļø Pinch where it feels too loose
š Pin or mark the extra
š Adjust the seam allowance before cutting into your final fabric
The muslin gives you the answer your measuring tape canāt.
Always best to buy muslin based on provided fabric weight as muslin comes in different weights. For knit, get a cheaper knit fabric to make muslin.
š” Pro Fit = Pattern + Muslin + You
The best-fitting garments donāt happen by luck.
They happen when you understand:
The patternās ease
Your own preferences
And how to test it before you make the real thing
Sewing Pattern Secrets was built to support that exact process.
š Ease statements in every pattern.
š And patterns tested on computer and by real sewistsājust like you.
šŖ” So next time youāre eyeing a pattern and wondering āWill this fit me right?ā...
Just flip to Page One. Read the red text. Then let your muslin do the talking.
Happy sewing,
āMargie
š Design Secrets Reminder: Fabric Fact Sheets + New Downloads Available!
Just a quick heads-upāFabric Fact Sheets inside the Fabric Whisperer section of the Apprentice Module are being added slowly and steadily. š§µ
We're also working on abbreviated videos to help you confidently shop for fabric onlineāespecially if you no longer have a local fabric store nearby.
š Now Available for Download:
⨠Sequin Fabrics (Gatsby Blouse)
šŖ” Lightweight Worsted Wool Suiting (perfect for the Gatsby Pant)
Log in to the Apprentice Module to grab them nowāand check back often for more!
Sewing Pattern Secretsš Trouble Clicking a Link to Complete your Registration?
If a link in this email or in your product registration email isnāt working, itās probably not youāitās your email server being dramatic.
Sometimes email providers (like Yahoo, AOL, or strict work filters) break links like it's their job. š
Hereās what to do:
š§© Copy the link from the email
š Paste it into a brand-new browser tab
šµļøāāļø Still stuck? Try opening it in Incognito Mode (aka Secret Agent Browsing)
If all else fails, just write me at [email protected] and Iāll get you what you need. š
Ready to dive in to the SPS Pattern Database?
If you're already a member, head straight to the database and grab these patterns now. Access Link
Not a member yet?
Join today for lifetime access to 155+ curated patternsāand discover why thousands of sewists say this is their favorite sewing library on the internet.
š Plus: Over 77 of these patterns can be sewn this weekend. No waiting. No overwhelm.
Sewing Games
š” Want More Than Just Weekend Patterns?
If you're the kind of sewist who craves precision fit, couture finishes, and elegant resultsāespecially for womenās garments in sizes 6 to 24Xāthen youāll want to take a hard look at Design Secrets.
Itās the perfect companion to Sewing Pattern Secrets, built for women ready to level up their skills and create garments that look like they walked off a runway (not a craft table).
Inside Design Secrets, youāll unlock:
š¹ 24 exclusive womenās patternsāeach one couture-inspired
š¹ 86+ video lessons on fine sewing, fit adjustments, and finishing techniques
š¹ Advanced ebooks, tools, and fitting guides
š¹ A private community of sewists who are serious about elevating their craft
š¹ Structured delivery over a yearāso you never feel overwhelmed
This is where the real transformation happensāfrom pattern follower to pattern designer.
š Want in? Click here to learn more about Design Secrets Ā»
š Paid Members Log in to Design Secrets here to start sewingĀ»
More Brewing
More from Sewing Pattern Secrets
We offer a database of over 155 sewing patterns, instructions, 46 supporting sewing tutorials, and 5 ebooks. Learn more.
Existing Members: Access your Paid Library Here
Existing Members: Sign into your Five Free Pattern Access
Sign up for Access to the Five Free Pattern Mini Sampler Site Here
How to Print Our Patterns Blog Article
Want to see more about what is INSIDE the database? Peek INSIDE NOW
Affiliate Disclosure:
Some of the links in this email and in The Sewing Brew newsletter contain affiliate links, which means if you click on them and make a purchase, we authors may receive a small commission, at not extra cost to you. This helps support our work and allows us to to continue to provide valuable free content. I only recommend products that I use and love. Thank you for your support.
/
Reply